![]() ![]() If the ECT is reading wrong than the computer might run the diagnostic during a time that will set a code. An example is the coolant temperature must be above 140 before a test is run on the knock sensor. It has 8 conditions that have to be met before the computer will flag a code. Normally the knock sensor signal fluctuates above and below the average voltage. I really need to see what the PCM was seeing at the few seconds before and when the code was set.Ī P0327 Sets when the PCM sees the reference voltage 95% of the trip time. Any ideas on what to look at next? Thanks!įred, can you post the freeze frame data for the code set? I read in the GM shop manual that a P0327 can set if there is an issue with the crankshaft positioning sensor. I don’t have any advanced scan tools to use and I’m having a hard time finding a scan tool that would help diagnose a P0327 code. I’m not sure where to go from this point. Drove the car and the check engine light came on after about eight miles – same code, P0327. I then connected a jumper wire to the threaded part of the knock sensor and connected the other end to the battery ground. Just to check the replacement knock sensor, I kept the knock sensor connected to the PCM and disconnected it from the engine block. Here is an update on what I’ve done so far:Ĭhecked the wiring between the knock sensor and PCM (checked out good) I checked the code, and yet again it was the same code that came up – P0327. The car seemed to idle better with this replacement PCM, but the the check engine light came on after about two miles of driving. This was a used PCM that I bought on Ebay that was updated with the latest software and the car’s VIN. I recently replaced the PCM computer with another PCM. Thanks for everyone’s help on this P0327 code issue… ![]() It’s like that voltage at the knock sensor plug-in connector is not getting to the knock sensor. When I plugged the connector back into the knock sensor I found that the plastic connector had a little bit of play in it – I could slightly wiggle the plastic connector side to side.Ĭould this just be a bad plastic connector on the knock sensor? I’m thinking this because it showed the exact same reading on the PCM reference voltage test (0.06 volts) and the back probe test (0.06 volts). I also noticed that the plastic connector on the knock sensor was a bit loose. It showed a reading of 103K ohms, which was in a specified range (93-107k ohms) in the testing flow chart of the shop manual. I set the DMM to 2000K ohm and inserted the red lead into the knock sensor and the black lead to battery ground. I also did an ohm scale test on the knock sensor that the shop manual recommended. I put the red lead on the pin at the connector and the black lead on battery ground. Turned the ignition key to “run.” Set the DMM to 20 DCV. I inserted a pin in the back of the connector. I plugged the knock sensor connector back into the knock sensor. (Turned the ignition to the “off” position.) I unplugged the knock sensor connector and then turned the ignition key to “run.” I set my DMM to 20 DCV and inserted the red lead into the connector on the PCM side to get a reference voltage. We also carry the antifreeze, radiator hoses, and serpentine belts you might need to complete your water pump installation.Thanks for the info! I followed the video and here is what I did: If you need a new water pump, shop O'Reilly Auto Parts for the right replacement cooling system components for your repair. Water pump failure can quickly lead to overheating and engine damage, so it is best to diagnose and repair any water pump or cooling system issues before you continue to drive your vehicle to prevent more costly or severe problems. ![]() You may also notice squeaking from the water pump pulley if the bearing has begun to fail, and if the pulley seems loose or wobbles while the engine is running, it could allow the belt to slip off or suffer damage. Depending on how your water pump fails, you may experience coolant leaks, engine overheating, or steam coming from under the hood indicating that the water pump requires service or replacement. Over time, the water pump gasket, the impeller, or the bearing in the water pump may fail. The water pump on your vehicle includes an impeller inside the engine's water channel that is driven by a pulley, which is powered by the engine's belt. Your water pump pressurizes coolant to keep it moving throughout the engine and cooling system, helping to keep your engine at its appropriate and safe-operating temperature. ![]()
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